I Sodi di San Niccolò 2021

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Vinous 97/100
Wine Spectator 97/100
Decanter 96/100
James Suckling 95/100
Falstaff 99/100

Descrizione

Born in 1977, when someone in Chianti decided the “usual” blends were no longer enough, I Sodi di San Niccolò is the Super Tuscan that made its name by staying resolutely indigenous: Sangioveto and Malvasia Nera, zero Bordeaux-style grapes. It was also the first Italian wine to enter the Wine Spectator Top 100 (1988, with the 1985 vintage; repeated in 1989) — which, at the time, felt a bit like bringing ribollita to the Met Gala. On the label, the iconic little bird of Castellare’s reds, a manifesto of a 40-plus-year commitment to sustainability.

“Sodi” is the Tuscan farmers’ term for hard, stony soils, so compact they must be worked by hand. Not exactly comfy; but perfect for wines with backbone. “San Niccolò” is the 14th-century church on the estate, standing guard over the choicest plots.

Vineyards at 430 meters above sea level on limestone soils, trained to reverse Guyot, with low yields (40–45 q/ha). Harvest takes place after mid-October: unhurried, precise and—above all—aimed at full phenolic ripeness.

Blend of 85% Sangioveto and 15% Malvasia Nera. Hand-picked in the first week of October; sorting table selection; separate fermentations in stainless steel (~7 days at 25 °C) with ~20 days’ maceration, malolactic completed. Aged 30 months in barrique (50% new), then rested in cement and a further 8 months in bottle before release: more bespoke tailoring than prêt-à-porter.

The 2021 vintage? Summer was parched—not the best omen. Then, from September 10 onward, the sharp drop in night-time temperatures saved the berries and the freshness. The result? A textbook year for late-ripening Sangiovese, with perfect maturities.

Deep ruby; a dense nose of dark cherry, blackberry and plum, with tobacco and licorice. The tannins are tight-knit yet silky, stitched together by Sangioveto’s vibrant acidity: power that doesn’t shout and length that doesn’t let go. This is where it outplays the field: while many Super Tuscans lean on sweet oak and international grapes, I Sodi doubles down on terroir identity and saline tension—remaining both elegant and age-worthy.

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